Sewing Room -- a work in progress!

I've been working really hard on organizing my sewing room. It's so much more fun to sew in a room that's tidy, organized, and inviting! You may remember my (very embarassing!) "before" shot a few months back -- ugh. Well, I am very happy to say it hasn't looked like that SINCE then... but it has been getting better and better in subsequent months! There is still a lot to be done, including some light decorating, but it has come a long, long way.

(note my high tech drawer locking system -- a toy broom. It gets the job done!)


We got four of these adjustable 6 foot shelves on Craigslist for a total of $40 a couple years ago. Not too shabby! Two of them are in my sewing room, and two are in the basement, mostly unused. Well, last week I stole two shelves from the ones in the basement and added them to the shelves in my sewing room. I now have six shelves on each side, which means much less wasted space in between each shelf. Happy dance!

I love my little configuration on the top shelf of fun things I've collected over the years. That mini sewing machine just kills me -- and I love the giant scissors and giant pincushion next to it! The blue case holds another little sewing machine.

The less-interesting side. I still need something to go on the top shelf over here. But, while kind of boring, the rest of it is well-organized. Look how those baskets fit in the shelves just like drawers. No wasted space, hooray!

Still on the list:

~ A cover for my neglected serger. Poor thing is quite dusty! I do use it, for sure, but it needs a cover for protection and for cuteness.

~ Hang my bulletin board on the wall behind the sewing machine. And hopefully my atomic-style clock that needs a repair.

~ And, my favorite, the skinny little shelf I have ready and waiting to be hung above the bulletin board. That's where all my LPS Blythes are going to sit. I can't wait for that!

~ The closet needs another once-over. I have gotten rid of boxes and bags and bags and boxes of sewing supplies I knew I would never use -- but the closet is still very full. Don't worry, it still looks very organized. I just know there's more I can do in there!

Progress!

I've been working on my sewing room. There has been much progress, but I'm not ready to show the entire room yet. Still more to do!


I did reorganize the fabric in my closet, and wanted to share! Years ago my brilliant (and handsome and kind!) husband came up with this idea for my fabric organization. It's a big wire rack typically used at restaurants or foodservice-type places. He found it at Sam's Club and knew exactly what it would be perfect for -- and he was so right! The individual bins are just right for organizing my fabrics by color. There are twice as many bins and shelves as what I am showing in the picture, but these are the bins of fabric I've refolded and reorganized so far.

I love this organization system!!
It's easy to see the colors, and I can pull out each bin and paw through the fabrics to make my selections. It really is perfect for fabric hoarders such as myself!


One other small sneak peek -- the safari wallpaper is gone, and I have finally modpodged together this little collage of ME! And it's even HANGING UP!
(Read more about my collage here, if you are interested.)

Rubik's Storage Cube

The last one!
I made all my Rubik's projects, all spread out over the past six months or so. Here's the final project I have to share this week:


A Rubik's Storage Cube!
I made it just after my obsession with my Storage Cube Tutorial, when I made a bunch of them all in a row. This one is a little different, in that the seams are all enclosed inside -- rather than having that decorative binding on the outside. Didn't want to mess with the integrity of the cube, of course!

It still folds up nice and flat, although I was careful not to cross any of the stitching for the folded sides over the colored squares -- it's all in between them.

Perfect for storing all sorts of geekery!

Storage Cube TUTORIAL part one -- Assembly!

I tried to squeeze all my photos and instructions into one post, but since I like to be extremely thorough with my photos and instructions, I think it will be easier to handle if it's split in two!

So, here we go!

Finished storage cube = approx. 6 1/2" inside measurement
Use 1/4" seam allowances throughout

NOTE: I tried to come up with a version that didn't involve binding, since I know that is scary to some people, BUT -- trust me when I say it's actually EASIER to do it with a binding! My non-binding attempt was very tricky to put together, and was a HUGE pain to finish. Don't give up on me, though -- read all the instructions. I really think you can do it!


Here's what you need to cut:

from main fabric:
2 - 7 1/4" squares
1 - 7 1/4" x 20 3/4" rectangle
(NOTE: If your fabric has a definite "right side up" pattern like mine, instead of the rectangle you will cut two more 7 1/4" squares plus another 7 1/4" square that will be the bottom. I used my lining fabric for the bottom of my cube, since it's not going to be seen much anyway! You will then piece these three squares together with 1/4" seam allowances to create a rectangle, with the "top" edges on the ends.)

from lining fabric:
2 - 7 1/4" squares
1 - 7 1/4" x 20 3/4" rectangle
2 - 3" x 7" squares for handles
2 - 2" x 44" strips for binding

stiff inserts:
(I used plastic canvas for my inserts, but you could certainly use cardboard, super stiff interfacing, or whatever else you think might work!)
2 - 6 5/8" squares
4 - 6 5/8" x 3 1/4"

STEP ONE: Create your handles! Lay a rectangle wrong side up on your ironing board. Turn the two short ends in 3/4" and press. Fold with long edges together, press. Open and press two long edges in to touch center fold, press. Fold center line again, press. You will then topstitch the two long sides.

STEP TWO: Prepare your binding. Fold your fabric strip wrong sides together as shown and press.

Here's what you should have!

STEP TWO: On your main fabric rectangle, mark where your handles will go. I placed the top edge of my handles 2" down from the raw edge, and the sides 1 5/8" from the sides of the rectangle.

STEP THREE: Attach your handles! Start with one end and sew a square with an X in the middle. Repeat on the other end.
(If you wanted to add a clear pocket for a label, you would do it at this point as well. I would recycle a small square of that clear plastic packaging from a sheet set or comforter!. Just sew a little pocket to slip a square of paper or cardstock into!)

STEP FOUR: You now need to create the "pockets" for your stiff inserts. Layer your rectangles wrong sides together. If yours looks like mine, you will be sewing a line directly between your squares. If not, you will mark 7" from either end with a disappearing ink marker and sew on your line. (I pinned mine to prevent shifting.) This line of sewing will prevent your stiff inserts from sliding down into the bottom of your cube.

STEP FIVE: Mark a line down the center of your two squares. Layer each square with a lining square, wrong sides together, and sew along your line. (I pinned again to help prevent shifting.)

STEP SIX: Look at your layered rectangles: There are four spots you need to clip just barely under 1/4", as shown -- at the ends of each line of stitching you sewed in Step Four.

All your prep work is now done -- You're ready to assemble your cube!

STEP SEVEN: Layer one of your squares lining sides together on top of one end of your rectangle. Pin.

Remember to backstitch! Sew, using 1/4" seam allowances, stopping 1/4" before the end of your square. Backstitch. (Yes, I sew right over my pins!)

STEP EIGHT: Rotate your square so that the bottom edge lines up with the edge of your rectangle.

Here is a view of the back, showing why you clipped that seam allowance in Step Six. It's a little bit hard to see, but you have a 1/4" square missing there on the corner.

Be sure to pull the excess fabric out of the way, as shown, so it doesn't end up sewn into your seam. Pin and sew, stopping 1/4" before the end of your square again. Repeat Step Eight for the third side of your square.

You will then repeat Steps Seven and Eight with your other square until you have a floppy little cube! Hooray, you're almost done!

(Find Part Two of this tutorial HERE!)

Storage Cube TUTORIAL, part two -- Binding!

(find Part One of this tutorial HERE!)

The method for binding the raw edges of your storage cube is basically the same as binding a quilt. I've actually tried a couple ways of binding these cubes, and this one seems to work the best.


STEP ONE: Start with a SQUARE side up. Lay your binding along the edge of the square with the raw edges lined up. (I moved mine over so you could see how I layered it.)

STEP TWO: Sew with 1/4" seam allowance, stopping 1/4" before the end of your cube. Backstitch. (Make sure all the excess fabric is out of the way so you don't end up sewing the bottom of your cube into the seam allowance!)

STEP THREE: Rotate your cube one turn counter-clockwise. Pull the excess fabric up and out of the way. Fold your binding upwards so the raw edges of the binding create a straight line with the raw edges of your cube, as shown.

STEP FOUR: You will now fold your binding down, once again lining up the raw edges with your square. (You can't see it yet, but this is creating a fancy-schmancy mitered corner!)

STEP FIVE: Backstitch until you are 1/4" from the edge, then sew forward again 1/4" shy of the next corner. Repeat Steps Three and Four for this corner, then sew all the way to the final edge.

Your cube should look like this!
Now, repeat Steps One through Five on the other side!

STEP SIX: Lay your cube so the binding is behind the raw edge of your cube, as shown. Fold the binding over the raw edge, encasing the raw edges inside. You will now finish attaching your binding!

STEP SEVEN: Sew along the folded edge of your binding. Try to match the seam allowance inside, if possible. When you get to the corner, stop (once AGAIN!) 1/4" from the end.

STEP EIGHT: Fold the bottom edge up, creating a pretty little mitered corner, as shown. I use a pin as a stiletto to guide that little fold into the machine. Once your needle pricks down into the edge of the corner, stop with the needle down and turn your cube. Then continue sewing to the next corner, mitering it the same way.

Repeat Steps Six through Eight for the other side!

STEP NINE: The exciting part! Grab your stack o' inserts and start stuffing them into the "pockets!" If you find that it's too tight a squeeze to get them in there, just trim them down a little.

Your cube is taking shape!! All that's left is binding that top edge!

STEP TEN: The top edge binding is a little bit tricky because your cube is now stiff, making it a little more fiddly to get through your machine. You are actually going to carefully pin the binding to the OUTSIDE edge of your cube, lining up all those raw edges, because you will be sewing it from the inside. On one of your foldy sides, leave your binding dangling in the middle, as shown. Leave a little excess hanging there! :o)

STEP ELEVEN: Starting close to the corner of your "dangly ends" side, SEW! using a 1/4" seam allowance. Look how I had to put my cube around my sewing machine! Ha ha!

STEP TWELVE: Gently pull your cube out flat in front of your machine. Stop near the corner once you get back to your "dangly side."

STEP THIRTEEN: Overlap your two edges and trim so there is 1/2" overlap.

STEP FOURTEEN: You will then pull the two ends away from the cube (it's handy that it folds here!) and face the ends right sides together. Sew them together with 1/4" seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open with your fingernail, then re-fold your binding. You will then finish attaching the binding at your machine.

The final step is to pull the folded edge of your binding around the raw edges (like you did in Step Six), and finish attaching your binding.


DONE!! Just a bit tricky here and there, but definitely doable -- and trust me, it gets easier as you go along! :o)

I love how they fold up --

-- so nice and flat! I've made about half a dozen of these already, and it gets easier and easier every time. They are addicting to make, and so cute!

You could adapt these instructions to make cubes of other sizes as well. I made this size first because it worked out economically with my plastic canvas, and because it is a perfect fit for eight I-Spy Blocks -- which is what I made my original storage cube for in the first place! :o)

Storage Cube!

I found a very small storage cube dealy at a thrift store a couple months ago. It's pretty much too small to be useful, and is not my favorite color, but I bought it anyway -- so I could make my own larger, cuter version, of course!

Here's the one I made:
It isn't perfect, mind you, but I do love it! The fabric is a remnant I got at JoAnns a couple weeks ago for less than a dollar.


I love that it's collapsible, too -- although I'm not sure that's a very useful feature...


...It's fun, though! It folds up nice and flat!


What am I using my new storage cube for? I-Spy Block storage, of course!! Eight blocks fit inside just perfectly!

I could write up some instructions, if anyone's interested. I want to modify my method just a little bit, so I'll be making another one anyway.

Let me know if you want a tutorial!

Drawstring Bags -- TUTORIAL

I've been organizing things little by little lately, and these guys were next on the list:

My vintage Fisher Price Little People collection has been taking over! Today I'll show you how I made this little bag to keep the people in. The applique is optional -- and without, this project will take literally minutes!

SUPPLIES:
~ Fabric -- size is your choice!
~ Ribbon
~ Safety pin (for threading your ribbon through)
~ Fusible webbing -- optional
~ Fabric scraps -- optional

STEP ONE: Fold your fabric in half to the approximate size you want your bag to be. I am using the selvedge at the top edge as a shortcut for later! Press your fabric on your fold line.


STEP TWO: Fold your folded side over to the raw edge, lining up your selvedge edge (at right). This will give you a straight line to guide your cutting. Cut down as deep as you'd like your bag to be.

STEP THREE: Fold again, this time top-to-bottom, using the selvedge edge as your cutting guideline. Ta-Da! Very straight lines and right angles!

STEP FOUR: Draw your applique motif. If you are doing a bag with no applique, skip to Step Nine.)

STEP FIVE: Trace each piece of your motif onto the paper side of your fusible webbing. (Remember that if your motif will be mirror image unless you flip it before tracing! For my people it didn't matter if they were flipped.)

STEP SIX: Roughly cut around each traced fusible webbing piece, and press onto the wrong side of your fabric scraps.

Here they are, all cut out.

STEP SEVEN: Peel the paper backing from each of your pieces and arrange them how you like. Press carefully -- do not glide your iron back and forth! -- lift and press, lift and press.

STEP EIGHT: Stitch around your appliques. This will keep them securely on your bag. I used clear monofilament thread so I wouldn't have to change thread colors for each different fabric.

STEP NINE: Open your bag piece and press the edge down approximately 1/2" (or whatever measurement you need to ensure your ribbon will fit through your casing).

STEP TEN: Sew the casing! This is where that selvedge edge comes in handy -- No need to turn your casing twice to avoid fraying!! I laid my ribbon on top to make sure there was plenty of room (with a little give) for it to fit through the casing, then sewed a straight line all the way down. Don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of your line!

STEP ELEVEN: Fold your bag in half, right sides together, and sew down the side and across the bottom. I also zigzagged the edge to avoid fraying.

STEP TWELVE: Snip a small slit in the casing on either side of your seam to thread your ribbon through. It is probably a good idea to use a little fray check on the holes so they won't shred over time.

STEP THIRTEEN: Pin your safety pin on one end of the ribbon and thread it through the casing.

STEP FOURTEEN: Pull the casing so it is completely flat (no gathering or it won't open all the way!), and tie a knot at the ends of your ribbon.

DONE! Fill it up and hang it on a hook!

Here's a larger bag I made for my ridiculous Mr. Potato Head collection. I made this one from two fat quarters, using the selvedges at the top for the casing once again!