Tiered Top/Dress from T-Shirts!

Today I will show you how to make a cute tiered top, dress, or skirt -- from dollar store T-shirts!

My dollar store has recently re-stocked their T-shirts -- called "seconds," usually for a tiny hole or some other minuscule flaw -- and there are so many bright and fun colors. As you can see, I got a little carried away and purchased 15 shirts!

STEP ONE: Pick and arrange three colors how you like them. Keep in mind that your tiers will be narrower as you go up -- choose shirt sizes accordingly.

STEP TWO: Cut out all your pieces. For the bottom tier, utilize the hem of that T-shirt! I cut my bottom tier 6 1/2" wide.


Also cut two 1 3/4" strips from the same T-shirt as your bottom tier. These will be your binding strips/straps for the bodice of the top.

I cut my second tier (lighter blue) 5" wide (not pictured).

Since you are cutting pieces from T-shirts, your strips will be tubes. Cut one side of each tube so each becomes one long strip.


Cut the bodice from your final T-shirt. I created a pattern by tracing an existing tank top -- front and back are the same. I cut four pieces because my white T-shirt was rather sheer -- double layer for both front and back.
(Check out how I utilized the sleeves!)

STEP THREE: Gather the top edge of the bottom tier. This is easier than you think!! I increased my stitch length to 5, which is the longest it can be, then increased my upper tension to about 5 1/2. Sew, but do not backstitch -- just in case you want to rearrange your gathers. Magic! Automatic gathers!

STEP FOUR: Change your sewing machine's tension back to its original setting. Using a narrow and long zigzag stitch (this will allow your seams to still have some stretch), attach your bottom tier to your middle tier, right sides together, just beyond your gathering stitchline.

I placed my middle tier right side up and layered the bottom tier right side down on top. (In the photo they look the same color, but the lower layer is the lighter blue!) Having the gathered tier on top makes it a little easier to control your gathers and keep them even.

Looking good already!
(I do this the lazy way, and simply trim tier two to match the bottom tier AFTER they are sewn together. Works great!!)

STEP FIVE: Press your binding/strap strips wrong sides together, lengthwise down the strip. Then fold each edge to the center and press again.

STEP SIX: Bind the top edge of your bodice front and bodice back.
Lay your bodice right side up, and align one raw edge of your binding right side down on top. Sew with a 3/8" seam allowance. Fold binding around and topstitch in place. (See Steps Eight and nine if this makes no sense to you!)

STEP SEVEN: Layer your bodice front and back right sides together and sew ONE side seam. Gather your second tier and attach it to the bodice, using the same method as Steps Three and Four. Then sew the other side seam for the entire top.

STEP SEVEN: Mark the center of one strip and pin it to the side seam of the arm opening. Pin around arm opening, then sew in place using a 3/8" seam allowance.

STEP EIGHT: Fold binding/strap strips together using your pressed lines (from Step Five) as a guide. Pin.

Sew about 1/8" from folded edges starting at one end of strap and working your way to the other end. Repeat Steps Seven and Eight for opposite arm hole.

Tie the top on your little one! It's done!

Depending on the size of the T-shirts you are using, this will work to make tops or skirts for older girls too!


VARIATIONS:
Wear as a dress OR as a top
Easier: Make a skirt using the same method
No pattern: Instead of creating a bodice, use elastic thread and shirr the top -- then add straps
With sleeves: Use my peasant top tutorial to create a bodice



I will have pictures of variations to share sometime in the near future!!

$7 Outfit Refashion -- Part Two

I posted the first half of my $7 Outfit Refashion last week. Here's Part Two!

My purchased $7 outfit consisted of a skirt with built-in shorts and a tank top. The tank top had the CUTEST print, gathers at the top, and a little bow. (No "before" picture -- I guess I was too excited to get started!)


I originally thought about taking in the sides, but it became apparent that if I did, the straps would end up way too far apart. I decided to do an alteration very similar to the one in my first Tank Top into Baby Dress tutorial, but with two little box pleats (one on either side of the bow) instead of one. The seams hide perfectly underneath that little bow!

Then for the back, I decided to simply create a center back seam. This automatically moved the straps to the right places. I took more out from the top, and narrowed my seam down to the bottom to create more of an A-line effect. The end result is a racerback style tank dress!


She wears the same bloomers from Part One underneath.

Two super cute new outfits! I love it!!

$7 Outfit Refashion -- Part One

Last week I picked up a cute little girls' two-piece outfit at Walmart for $7. It was size 8 -- obviously way too big for JellyBean -- but I had some refashioning in mind!!

Here's the first half of the refashion:

The skirt had built-in shorts -- and I immediately had an idea for what to do with them!

I cut them away from the skirt as close to the seam as possible.

I sewed another line of stitching around the hem of the shorts. I was careful to make the distance between the original hem's stitching line and my new stitching line just the width of a safety pin.

On the inside, right next to the inseam, I snipped a little hole in between lines of stitching, then used a safety pin to thread 1/4" elastic through.

I folded down the top raw edge of the shorts and sewed to create a casing. I used 3/4" elastic, although if I'd had 1/2" elastic on hand I would have used it instead!

Ta-Da!! Super quick little bloomers with cutie little ruffly leg openings!

I then put the skirt on JellyBean, up around her chest, and measured how much I would need to take out to make it into a little top. I sewed, then cut away the excess. I used the scrap to create two little straps -- which ended up being the perfect length!

I marked them for placement and sewed them in place on the inside of the top.

Ta-Da!! An adorable little sunsuit!

Super quick and easy, and done in one sitting -- supreme satisfaction!


I can tell she feels very cute in it by the way she walks!

I'll show you the second half of the $7 Outfit Refashion soon....

Toddler Dish Towel Bathrobe!

Today's Dollar Store Craft is an incredibly adorable toddler-sized bathrobe! It's perfect for throwing on after a bath or a swim, and best of all, it's made from TWO dollar store dish towels! It's so simple to make, yet certainly has a lot of bang for your two bucks!

SUPPLIES:

~ Two terry dish towels -- mine measured about 14.5"x24"
(This size of dish towel yielded a robe perfectly sized for my almost-18-month-old, although these towels are a bit on the smaller side. I am sure you could find larger ones for an older toddler.)
~ Approximately 3 1/2 yards 3/4" wide cotton twill tape

STEP ONE: Prewash and dry your towels and twill tape!

STEP TWO: Fold one towel in half from hem to hem and cut along the fold, as shown.

STEP THREE: Fold your second towel in quarters to find the center and mark. Fold from hem to hem and cut from one edge to the center, as shown.

STEP FOUR: With your towel still folded cut a small neck opening, as shown.

(I don't know if this diagram is helpful or confusing!)

STEP FIVE: Lay your towel with the neck opening on a flat surface.

STEP SIX: Lay one of your dish towel halves on top, right sides together, with the raw edge centered on the edge. Pin, being careful not to stretch the towels. Sew with a 3/8" seam allowance.

Repeat Steps Five and Six for the opposite side of your towel, as shown.

STEP SEVEN: Continue the center front cut line through the hem of your towel, as shown.

(Note: You COULD do things in a different order -- skipping steps three and four until after five, six and seven. I did mine this way because it was easier to fold and find the center point of my towel before attaching the other towel halves.)

STEP EIGHT: Remove a small amount from the "underarm" area of the robe. Fold your robe right sides together and cut away a 1 1/4" width rectangle. This makes the sleeves narrower and more fitted, and also eliminates the bulky finished edge of the towel.

At this point I serged the seams where I attached the towels to each other, then topstitched the seams down. I do recommend finishing the edges to avoid fraying, but you could certainly use a zigzag stitch if you don't have a serger.


STEP NINE: (not pictured) Sew the side seams on each side from the hem of the sleeve all the way around to the hem of the robe. Use a 1/2" seam allowance. Serge or zigzag for a finished edge on the seams. Note: If you like, you can add twill tape loops for your robe when you sew the side seams.

STEP TEN: Cut a 1 1/2 yard length of twill tape and press it in half lengthwise, as shown. This will be the binding for the raw edge opening of your robe.

STEP ELEVEN: Carefully bind the robe opening, starting at the hem on one side (finish the ends of the twill tape by folding them inside before you sew), and continuing all the way around to the other hem. This finishes the edge of your robe beautifully, without the need for bias tape or a facing!

STEP TWELVE: Cut your remaining twill tape into two 1 yard pieces. Layer them together and sew all the way around. This is the tie for your robe.

Your adorable little robe is finished!

It absolutely KILLS me -- it's so stinking cute on JellyBean! And she loves it, too!

ABC Book (part two) -- TUTORIAL

find part one of my tutorial here!

Each of your backgrounds will be a two-page spread, with the exception of "m" and "n."  This means you will end up cutting out 12 rectangles and 2 squares rather than 26 squares, and it will make your construction much easier.

You will cut your background rectangles (and your cover!) 12" x 6" and your squares 6" x 6 1/2".  Layer your two squares right sides together and sew with a 1/4" seam allowance to create a 12" x 6" rectangle.  You will also cut your (LIGHTWEIGHT!!) batting into seven 12" x 6" rectangles.  Or if you are using felt, cut 14 rectangles.

STEP ONE:  You may want to "audition" your background fabrics with your letters to determine which ones work best.  In my example book, I chose three backgrounds that would go well with any of my letter fabrics.  I simply laid out my letter groups on top of my background fabrics and chose the best background for each group as a whole.  I then listed my letters with each background color so I wouldn't get mixed up during my cutting and pressing (see photo).

Here's a quick list that might be helpful:

BACKGROUND ONE:  a z,  w d,  g t,  q j,  m

BACKGROUND TWO:  y b,  e v,  s h,  k p,  n

BACKGROUND THREE:  c x,  u f,  i r,  o l

STEP TWO:  Fold each page wrong sides together and press with your iron to create a crease.  This will help when you are centering and pressing each letter in place.

STEP THREE:  Carefully remove the paper backing from your letters and center them within the squares.  You will want to shift them just slightly towards the center to accomodate for the 1/4" seam allowance that will be taken on the outer edges.  Press them in place with an up-down patting of your iron.  Don't drag your iron side to side or you may risk distorting or shifting your letters.

You will then take your finished pages and layer them together exactly as they will be in your finished book.  This will ensure you get all the pages in the right places in the next step.

STEP FOUR: Take one of your batting/felt rectangles and layer one of your pages letter-side up on top.  Sew around the edges of each letter about 1/8" in from the edge using your clear monofilament thread.  You are quilting and securing your letters at the same time.  (If you are using batting, sew the letters on the opposite side of the page without batting.)

STEP FIVE:  Layer the two sides of your page right sides together.  Double-check to be sure you've got everything in the right place.

STEP SIX:  Starting about two inches from the center bottom of the page, sew all the way around, stopping about two inches from the other side of the center bottom.

STEP SEVEN:  Trim the corners as shown.  This will help give you nice pointy corners when you turn your page right side out.

STEP EIGHT: Turn your page right side out through the opening.  Use a chopstick or other blunt-yet-pointy object to poke the corners out.  Don't stab too hard or you might rip a hole in the corner.

STEP NINE:  Press the edges of your page to give them a nice clean, straight edge.

Remember to also press your opening, turning the raw edges inside as shown.

STEP TEN:  Choose a thread color for all the edges of your pages.  Topstitch around all the edges of your pages about 1/8" from the edge, starting at the center bottom of the page.  (Your stops and starts will hide here nicely once the pages are all sewn together.)  Backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.

To turn the corners, simply stop on the corner with your needle down, lift your presser foot and turn the page, then lower the presser foot again and continue sewing.

You now have a nice stack of pages ready to be sewn together!

STEP ELEVEN:  Sew your pages together in two groups -- one group of three and one group of four.  Lengthen your stitch to about 3 1/2 to help your machine get the pages through.  Then you will sew the two groups together to create one book!

You may want to hand crank it at first to see how your machine will react to all that bulk.  Amazingly, on my last book my machine did it just fine!  It helped to do the two groups first so everything was smashed down a little, and to avoid shifting all those layers.  With this particular book my batting was TOO THICK -- and I ended up sewing my two groups together by hand.  Yeowch!  I definitely recommend a very lightweight batting or felt!

If you make a book using my tutorial, I would LOVE to see it.  Please send me a photo or a link!